February 7th.
Suddenly the low clouds looked different. My face scrunched up into a
confused, anticipatory look. Was that land I could see out to the East?
Dave picked up his binoculars and confirmed that we were looking at
jagged black rocky spires, emerging from a mass of white shimmering
glaciers. The chart put a name to it, we were oggling at 2,100metre high
Smith island, at the southern end of the South Shetland islands. It was
over 30 miles away so it must be even more overwhelming if you are
beside it, craning you neck upwards.
Finally our 5 day journey from Ushuaia is nearly complete. By 8pm, we
should arrive at the Melchior Islands,where 3 of our kayaks are waiting
for us {The other 4 are on board}. The Drake Passage has not lived up to
it’s fearsome reputation this time, the wind has barely bothered to blow
over 10 knots and the swells have been mostly lazy, 1-2 metre rollers.
It’s made for a comfortable, but perhaps slower passage. The effect on
us passengers has been noticeable. For the first couple of days in
slightly rougher seas, people passed like shadows, only making essential
journeys to the cockpit for watchduty, to bed and the bathroom. Gry and
I occasionally cooked some hot food, otherwise oatmeal, cereal, bread,
instant noodles, crackers and dehydrated meals were thrown down throats
when people were confident it would stay there. Gradually over the last
few days, there have been cheery chats around the kitchen table, books
have been read, diaries have been updated and meals have become more
elaborate as everyone found their sea legs. Dave metamorphosed from a
creature who was glued to the side of the yacht with his red face
pointing downwards into the waves, into a smiling, binocular-toting
watchmate, who can share his considerable knowledge of the various
albatroses, petrels and other birds soaring past on their search for
dinner. We’ve also spotted a few penguins, seals, dolphins and maybe a
small whale.
For the last 24 hours, The engine has been powering us south as the 3
knots of wind won’t cut it. Most people are taking advantage of the
supply of hot water to take showers. Myself, I’m still in the same
thermals that I’ve been wearing for 5 days and I haven’t decided whether
I need a wash yet!? Maybe after we go kayaking tomorrow!
We should have about 20 days kayaking and exploring the Antarctic
peninsula before we’ll have to head back across the Drake Passage. We
can only hope for similar weather!